How to Clean a Front-Load Washing Machine (It's Probably Mouldy)

Front-load washing machines are more water-efficient and gentler on clothes than top-loaders. They also have a well-documented problem that has frustrated owners since they became mainstream: they go mouldy.

If your washing comes out smelling musty despite being freshly washed, or if you open the machine door and notice a sour or damp smell, or if you can see dark grey or black patches in the rubber door seal — your machine has mould and it needs to be cleaned.

This post covers the complete clean, the ongoing maintenance routine that prevents recurrence, and an honest look at why front-loaders are susceptible to this problem in the first place.

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Why Front-Loaders Get Mouldy

Understanding the problem makes the solution make more sense.

The door seal design: The rubber gasket (also called a boot or bellows seal) that seals the door on a front-loader has folds and crevices that trap water after every wash cycle. This water doesn't drain — it sits in the folds, keeping the rubber perpetually damp. In a warm laundry environment, this creates near-ideal conditions for mould growth.

Low-temperature washing: Modern eco-detergents and short cycles at low temperatures don't generate enough heat to kill the mould spores that colonise the drum and seal. The trend toward cold and warm washing (which saves energy) contributes to mould accumulation.

High-efficiency (HE) detergent dosing: Front-loaders require HE low-suds detergent in small quantities. Using regular detergent, or using too much HE detergent, leaves soap residue in the machine that feeds mould.

Closed doors: Leaving the machine door closed between washes traps moisture inside the drum with no way to evaporate.

Detergent drawer: The detergent drawer accumulates soap scum, mould and bacteria — particularly in the softener compartment where water pools and dries repeatedly.

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The Symptoms

• Musty or sour smell when opening the machine door
• Washing that smells musty even when freshly washed and dried
• Visible grey, black or brown discolouration in the door seal folds
• Musty odour in the laundry room
• Slimy residue in the detergent drawer

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The Full Clean: Step by Step

Step 1: Clean the Door Seal

This is the most important and most labour-intensive part of the clean. The mould in the seal folds won't be removed by running a cycle — you need to physically clean it.

What you need: Old toothbrush, microfibre cloth, rubber gloves, diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) or white vinegar.

Method:

1. Open the machine door fully and pull back the rubber seal to expose the folds inside. You'll likely find pooled water, debris (socks, lint, coins) and mould — dark grey or black patches in the rubber.

2. Wipe the accessible surface of the seal with a microfibre cloth dampened with your cleaning solution.

3. Pull the seal fold back further to expose the back face of the gasket and the inner surface of the fold. This is where the most mould typically lives and where most cleaning stops short.

4. Scrub the mouldy areas with the old toothbrush and your cleaning solution. Get into every fold.

5. For stubborn mould that doesn't scrub off readily: apply a small amount of undiluted bleach to the affected area, leave for 5 minutes, then scrub. Rinse with a damp cloth.

6. Wipe all seal surfaces — front, back and in every fold — with a clean damp cloth to remove cleaning solution residue.

7. Dry the seal thoroughly with a dry cloth. A dry seal after cleaning reduces immediate recolonisation.

Note on bleach vs vinegar: Bleach is more effective at killing mould on rubber than vinegar. Vinegar is a mild acid that kills some mould species but is not as reliable on rubber surfaces. For mould remediation on a washing machine seal, bleach is the better choice. Use it ventilated and with gloves.

Step 2: Clean the Detergent Drawer

The detergent drawer is a consistently overlooked source of mould and odour.

1. Pull the drawer out completely. Most front-loader drawers slide fully out when you press a small release tab — check your machine manual.

2. Rinse the drawer under warm water to remove loose detergent buildup.

3. Scrub all compartments with an old toothbrush and dish soap — the softener compartment in particular accumulates a slimy residue.

4. For mould in the drawer housing (the cavity in the machine where the drawer sits): use a damp cloth and toothbrush to clean inside the cavity, including the back wall and the water inlet holes.

5. Rinse the drawer thoroughly and allow to partially dry before replacing.

Step 3: Clean the Filter

Most front-loaders have a pump filter that catches lint, coins, hair and debris. It's usually behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Many owners never know it exists.

A clogged filter reduces drainage efficiency and can cause odour.

1. Locate the access panel — it's usually a small door or removable panel at the bottom front corner of the machine.

2. Place a shallow container or towels under the filter area before opening — water will drain out when the filter is removed.

3. Unscrew the filter cap slowly, allowing water to drain.

4. Remove the filter completely and rinse under running water. Remove any debris — lint, coins, hair, small items.

5. Check the filter housing for debris and wipe clean.

6. Replace the filter and tighten the cap. Replace the access panel.

Step 4: Run a Hot Cleaning Cycle

With the seal, drawer and filter cleaned:

Option A — Machine cleaner: Products like Finish Machine Cleaner, Vanish Washing Machine Cleaner or similar are designed specifically for this purpose. Follow the product instructions — typically placed directly in the drum or in the drawer.

Option B — DIY method:

• Add 500ml of white vinegar directly to the drum (not the drawer)
• Run the machine on the hottest, longest cycle available — typically the Cotton 90°C setting or the self-clean programme if your machine has one
• At the end of this cycle, add half a cup of baking soda directly to the drum
• Run another hot cycle

The hot water combined with vinegar or the cleaning product reaches drum surfaces, the drum seal back surface, and internal components that you can't access physically.

Step 5: Wipe the Drum and Door Interior

After the cleaning cycle, while the machine is still warm:

1. Wipe the drum interior with a clean microfibre cloth.
2. Wipe the door glass interior.
3. Wipe the door seal again — the hot cycle will have loosened additional residue that can now be wiped away.
4. Leave the door and drawer open to air dry.

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The Maintenance Routine That Prevents Recurrence

This is the more important part. A machine that's been cleaned properly will go mouldy again within months without changing the habits that caused it.

After every wash:

• Wipe the door seal dry with a cloth — takes 20 seconds. This is the single most impactful habit.
• Leave the door open between washes. Always. This allows the drum and seal to dry between cycles.
• Leave the detergent drawer open or pulled out slightly.

Monthly:

• Wipe the door seal folds with a damp cloth — a quick inspection and wipe.
• Pull out the detergent drawer and rinse it.
• Run a hot cleaning cycle.

Every 3 months:

• Clean the pump filter.
• Full seal inspection and scrub if any mould spots are appearing.

Detergent habits:

• Use HE (high-efficiency) detergent specifically designed for front-loaders.
• Use the correct amount — usually less than you think. Check the detergent packaging for the recommended dose for your load size and water hardness. In Adelaide's hard water, you may need slightly more than the minimum recommendation.
• Avoid powder detergent if you have persistent residue problems — liquid HE detergent leaves less residue in front-loader machines.

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When to Call a Technician

If the musty smell in your home persists after a thorough clean and ongoing maintenance, or if:

• You can see mould growing on the drum baffles (the fins inside the drum) rather than just the seal
• The machine has a persistent drain smell that cleaning cycles don't resolve
• The seal has visible cracks or deterioration (a damaged seal should be replaced)

...a washing machine service technician can inspect internal components including the pump, drum baffles and internal hoses that aren't accessible for DIY cleaning.

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For laundry cleaning advice, or for a full laundry room clean as part of a professional home service, contact PF Cleaning Adelaide.

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If your home has a persistent musty smell and you're not sure where it's coming from, the washing machine is one of the first places to check — read our full guide on why your home smells musty and what to do about it.

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Written by Victor Jacon — Master Cleaner & Home Detailing Specialist, Founder of PF Cleaning Adelaide.